Travelling in Jordan is walking back in time and yes, you can never drown in the Dead Sea – so floating in the saline water as the sun dips across the lonely hills into the Palestinian territory was as surreal an experience as I had expected it to be. As I sat there, covered in the black mud pulled out of the murky waters, I thought of the history of the Holy Land – crucible of the world’s three biggest faiths that trace their heritage to one man, Abraham.